Mississippi flat and green even in February. Crossed the river. Louisiana slower — cypress and still water and the smell of something rotting sweetly in the air. Talking about lunch through Shreveport, went a few exits past downtown, pulled off to look something up. Sam's Fish House was right there. Turned out to be top-rated. Oyster po'boy, thin napkins. Pure luck, perfectly timed.

Texas changed the air. Wider somehow. Austin by evening, loud and warm and smelling like cedar smoke. Rudy's BBQ: brisket, white bread.