Up early, straight into the park, straight up to the Chisos Mountain Lodge. The Window Trail: five miles down through the sky island to a pouroff that frames the entire desert basin below — you're standing on an island of mountains looking out over a sea of nothing. Challenging hike. We took our time.

Back to the truck and south on Ross Maxwell all the way to Santa Elena Canyon. The Rio Grande cuts through 1,500-foot walls on both sides — the canyon closes around you and the sky narrows to a strip. Another one you stand in and don't say much.

Back to the Starlight for the third night running. This time there was live music — Terry Klein, a country singer from the area, playing to a room full of people who'd all found the same ghost town at the end of the same dirt road. Caught a gorgeous sunset. Stars again after. Early to bed — crack of dawn start tomorrow, longest drive of the trip.