The Chisos Mountain Lodge had been canceled — water out, no notice until we were already in Texas. Scrambled to find the Airbnb from the road. Checked out of Big Bend Station in the dark, gas station breakfast, egg sandwich and burrito, and into the park.

Panther Junction first for the ranger talk. Then east — down to the river near the hot spring, boat launch by the village. We walked to the bank and put our feet in the Rio Grande. First time for both of us. Mexico right there on the other side. On the way to Boquillas Canyon, three coydogs crossed the road ahead and disappeared into the desert.

At the canyon trailhead: a man on horseback, crossing from the Mexican side, selling empanadas and bobbleheads in the middle of a national park. We bought one. Put him on the dashboard. Named him Raymond. He rode with us the rest of the trip. The canyon itself was something else — I walked out into the river, ankle deep, low water, basically standing in Mexico.

Only 2pm. Decided to keep going. Drove up to the Chisos Mountain Lodge — the place we were supposed to stay — walked around, looked down at the famous Window. Then back toward Terlingua to find the Airbnb before dark. Off-grid, two miles down an unimproved dirt road. Dark sky conservation town — no street lights, nothing. Dad spotted the old mine trail on the way and said what the hey, so we added two more miles for a last view before sunset. Made the Airbnb with light to spare. Went back to the Starlight. Came home to a sky full of stars and laid out looking up at it.